The Pursuit of Circularity: The Realities of Building a Closed-Loop Fashion System

In the race toward sustainable fashion, circularity has become more than a buzzword — it's a mandate. Yet for all the ambition surrounding closed-loop systems, the path forward is far from linear. At Celys we believe that real progress lies not only in innovation but in acknowledging the friction that comes with transformation.

In a recent panel discussion at the Hong Kong Fashion Instyle event focused on “Upstream Circularity: Designing a Closed-Loop System in Fashion,” the conversation centred exactly on where it needs to be —upstream. True circularity begins long before a garment ends up in a donation bin or recycling facility. It starts with the materials we choose, the systems we design, and the assumptions we make about what happens when things don’t go-to plan.

Why Celys Exists

Celys was born to serve a critical upstream need in the textile value chain: to offer a certified compostable, high-performance alternative to conventional polyester. Our fibre is engineered for circular systems — but more importantly, it’s engineered for a reality where those systems don’t yet fully exist.

Yes, we aspire to be part of a future in which every fibre is collected, repurposed, or biodegraded within a seamless closed-loop system. But we also design for the gaps. For when infrastructure fails. For when composting facilities aren’t available. For when a garment ends up in a landfill despite every good intention.

Designing for Imperfection

One of the most overlooked truths in sustainable fashion is that circularity assumes perfect systems. But the real world is full of imperfections:

• Recycling and composting infrastructure is inconsistent at best, especially at the municipal level.
• Collection systems often fail to capture garments at scale, especially in low-income or decentralised regions.
• Economic pressures drive brands and manufacturers to prioritise cost over innovation.
• Regulatory frameworks are fragmented, with no global consensus on definitions or standards for circularity.

If we design solely for ideal conditions, we fail to build resilience into the system. And we risk greenwashing ourselves into complacency— telling a circular story that doesn’t hold up when the infrastructure breaks down.

Beyond Recycled Polyester

Take recycled polyester, for example — often hailed as a sustainable hero. It has its place, particularly in diverting PET bottles from land fills. But when garments made from recycled polyester can’t be recycled again due to contamination, lack of infrastructure, or mixed material blends, they end up where their virgin counterparts do: in landfills or, worse, in the environment.

That’s where materials like Celys make a difference because if and when the system fails, the fibre doesn’t.

The Road Ahead: Collaboration and Honesty

Creating a truly circular fashion system will require more than innovation — it demands transparency, partnership, and a willingness to confront hard truths. We must move beyond surface-level sustainability claims and ask: What happens when the end-of-life system breaks? What’s the backup plan?

We’re proud to be working with mills, designers, and brands who are asking these questions and pushing for real change. However, we recognise that the road ahead is long, nonlinear, and complex.

Still, we’re here for it — not just to build better fibres, but to help create a better system. One that works not just in theory, but in practice. One that can handle failure and bounce back stronger.

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This article was originally published on Celys LinkedIn page here where you can follow the conversation